LET'S EXPLORE POLAND

Copyright 1997 by the AngloPol Corporation

This series will take us through the cities, towns, villages and countryside of Poland, 
as well as give us insights into the rich history and culture of the nation.

Part 21

EASTERN POLAND IN THE FOOTHILLS

The Swietokrzyskie Mountains (Gory Swietokrzyskie), counted among the oldest mountain chains in Europe, are only 180 km. to the south of Warsaw. Visitors can get there via Grojec and Radom, or take a somewhat longer route via Warka. Kazimierz Pulaski (1704-69), a hero of both the Polish and American nations, was born in the Warka palace, which is now a museum.

Past Radom, a large industrial center, and Szydlowiec, which holds a unique Museum of Folk Musical Instruments displaying exhibits from across Poland, one enters a hilly country. Once very high and mighty, the Swietokrzyskie Mountains have been eroded in the course of their long geological history so that now the highest peak, Lysica, is only 612 m. high. The parallel, small mountain ridges are covered with forests; the most precious of them, Puszcza Jodlowa (Fir Forest) is enclosed in the borders of Swietokrzyski National Park. Holy Cross (Swiety Krzyz) is the name of the second highest peak in the Swietokrzyskie Mountains and also the name of the Benedictine Monastery first established there in the 12th century.

The remnants of the oldest, Romanesque structure are visible within younger walls. Going down the road to Nowa Slupia the visitor can stop at the Museum of Ancient Smelting Techniques displaying "dymarki," primitive smelting furnaces from 2,000 years ago. Demonstrations of iron smelting as it was done in the past are the highlight of "Dymarki Swietokrzyskie," a folklore festival organized in September of each year.

There are many holiday spots in and around the Swietokrzyskie Mountains. The 17th century Bishop's Palace (now a museum) and the Cathedral in Early Baroque style adorn the main city of the region, Kielce. Two interesting geological structures are accessible to tourists within the city limits.

In Checiny, just south of Kielce, are the ruins of a 13th century castle, now containing a hostel. After visiting nearby "Jaskinia Raj," a cave formed in limestone and named "Paradise" for its beauty, tourists can enjoy a meal in a fashionable restaurant, which is located in an old church building.

In Ostrowiec Swietokrzyski there is an interesting Regional Museum and in Krzemionki Opatowskie one can visit a Neolithic flint mine. Cmielow is known for its porcelain factory and Sandomierz, a town beautifully situated on the bank of the Vistula, has numerous monuments of architecture. The 13th century Church of St. Jacob, built in the Romanesque style, is the oldest building in Sandomierz. Also recommended is a visit to the Cathedral built in Gothic style with additions in later styles; the Royal Castle, Late Gothic "Dlugosz House," the Renaissance Town Hall and the old building of the Jesuit College.

The Market Square is surrounded by charming Renaissance and Baroque houses. Visitors can take a guided tour through the labyrinth of passages and tunnels connecting the cellars of this Medieval city. The surrounding fertile loess soils are particularly suitable for vegetable growing. Many ravines enliven the picture of this hilly, green countryside. A scenic route leads south from Sandomierz to Krakow along the Vistula.

It is wise to take a detour to the basin of the River Nida. Here one can visit Wislica, now a very small town, with the Gothic Collegiate Church built on the earlier, Romanesque structure; Busko Zdroj, a spa for patients with rheumatism and diseases of the limbs; Pinczow with several monuments of Renaissance architecture and Jedrzejow with a unique Museum of Clocks displaying sundials and old astronomical instruments.

If a tourist chooses a somewhat longer route from Kielce back to Warsaw via Piotrkow Trybunalski, he can see the Cistersian Abbey in Sulejow, the "Niebieskie Zrodla" nature reserve, a health resort nicely situated in the forest and a Museum in the remnants of the Medieval castle of Rawa Mazowiecka.

LOWICZ FOLKLORE AND THE "POLISH MANCHESTER"

Within a short distance from Warsaw one can visit the birthplace of Frederic Chopin, see the live folk culture of the Lowicz region and the largest center of the Polish textile industry--Lodz.

The Kampinos Forest, now a national park, spreads to the northwest of Warsaw. In the years 1940-43 the Nazis murdered over two thousand Poles in mass executions there. The cemetery in Palmiry commemorates their memory. Zelazowa Wola, the birthplace of the famous Polish composer, Frederic Chopin (born 1810), is situated on the western edge of the forest, a 60 km. drive from Warsaw. The family house, with its surrounding romantic park adorned with two statues of the composer, is now a museum. Visitors enjoy performances of Chopin's music given by famous pianists.

The Lowicz region is known for its living folk art tradition and culture. Up to this day the inhabitants of villages around Lowicz pursue such old crafts as weaving, embroidery and woodcarving. Local women produce beautiful things using traditional paper cutting techniques. All these products are on display in the Museum of Lowicz. The colorful folk costume of the region can be admired at festivals, especially during the religious celebration of Corpus Christi.

Life and customs of a village near Lowicz have been described by the Polish writer Wladyslaw Reymont in the novel "Chlopi" ["The Peasants"], for which he was awarded the Nobel Prize in 1924.

In nearby Arkadia the tourist can stroll through the alleys of a beautiful park planned in Romantic style and, in Nieborow, visit the palace now housing the Museum of Baroque Interiors. In Arkadia, it is worthwhile seeing "Wesele Lowickie" ["Lowicz Weeding"], a folklore show in which you will not only be a spectator, but also an active participant.

Lodz is one of the largest cities in Poland. The rapid growth of what was a small village was triggered by the development of the textile industry in the 19th century. It is still called "the Polish Manchester," even through other industries have developed there as well.

Lodz is also a big center of science and culture. Numerous palaces and residences of industrial magnates are fine examples of Secession. Visits to the Museum of Modern Art and the Museum of the Textile Industry are suggested.

Lodz is the seat of the only Film Academy in Poland. It may not be Hollywood, but it holds the largest film studios in the country.

Continuing our trip, we travel through the town of Leczna, where one can visit a museum located in the former King's Castle. The Collegiate Church in the nearby Tum was built in the middle of the 12th century in Romanesque style. The church constructed of huge boulders, granite and sandstone is the largest and most precious monument of Romanesque architecture in Poland.

The Museum of the Battle of Bzura, the fiercest battle in the defense of Poland in September 1939, is the highlight of a visit to Kutno.

On the route to Plock you can admire the scenery of the Gostynin lake district and pay a visit to Lack stud farm, known for its famous stallions. Visitors can come to Lack for a riding vacation.

Another famous horse breeding center is in Walewice, whose former owner, Maria Walewska, is remembered for her love affair with Napoleon. The tourist can no longer meet the beautiful Walewska, of course, but one can admire the 18th century Classic palace.

Reminiscences of Napoleon will accompany you also on the way back to Warsaw. Napoleon and Maria Walewska are said to have once stopped here by the old forge [kuznia] in Paprotnia. The forge has been reconstructed and converted into a fashionable restaurant, "Kuznia Napoleonska".

THE CITY OF COPERNICUS

The route on this attractive excursion runs parallel to the Vistula [Wisla] through historic towns and serene landscapes. In the old town of Czerwinsk we pay a visit to the Salesian Monastery with its beautifully kept Romanesque church, decorated inside with Romanesque and Gothic frescos. It was there that the Polish armies crossed the waters of the Vistula in 1410, on their way to victory at the decisive battle with the Teutonic Knights near Grunwald.

The longest wooden bridge in Europe links the two banks of the Vistula in Wyszogrod.

Plock, now a thriving industrial, cultural and tourist center was the capital of Poland for a short time during the Middle Ages. Historical buildings are situated on Wzgorze Tumskie [Tum Hill], 50 meters above the river. The 14th century castle now houses the Museum of Mazovia, housing an interesting exhibition of Secession art. The Cathedral dates back to the 12th century. Its main door is an exact copy of the 12th century original and the Royal Chapel contains the tombs of two Polish Kings. The Diocesan Museum contains a fine collection of art treasures.

Between Plock to Wloclawek we travel along the bank of a large artificial lake created by the construction of a high-water dam in Wloclawek, which is world famous for its hand-decorated faience.

Ciechocinek is one of the largest health resorts in Poland, specializing in the treatment of limb diseases, diseases of the circulatory system and anaemia. The 19th century technology is a major tourist attraction. The solution of salt is concentrated there to three times its original strength. The surrounding air is saturated with ozone and particles of salt, creating a very favorable microclimate.

Torun, a large city on the Vistula, is an important industrial, scientific and cultural center and the final leg of our travels in Eastern Poland. The famous Polish astronomer, Nicolaus Copernicus [Mikolaj Kopernik], the author of the heliocentric theory was born here.

The oldest part of Torun, close to the Vistula, is a large complex of Gothic architecture. In the old city center one should visit the monumental Church of St. John and the historic Town Hall, now a Regional Museum with exhibitions of Medieval art, stained-glass windows, old Polish paintings and modern art. The statue of Copernicus is next to the Town Hall. Numerous Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque dwellings, as well as storage houses, are very well preserved. Fragments of the city walls with huge gates on the side of the river are especially impressive.

The museum devoted to the life and work of Nicolaus Copernicus is located in his family house and the adjacent building. The University of Torun has been named after the great astronomer.

An extended stay in Torun is worthwhile. The visitor can take a closer look at the city during sightseeing tours and make excursions to Ciechocinek, Grudziadz and Golub-Dobrzyn. Fans of water sports can make a canoe trip along the picturesque, but demanding, River Drweca or paddle through the lakes and canals of the Brodnica lake region.