LET'S EXPLORE POLAND

Copyright 1997 by the AngloPol Corporation

This series will take us through the cities, towns, villages and countryside of Poland, 
as well as give us insights into the rich history and culture of the nation.

Part 17

AN INTRODUCTION TO
SOUTHEAST POLAND

As in other parts of Poland, the tourist is warmly greeted and received here the year around and can always participate in various forms of tourism and relaxation. The mountains are the most important element in the landscape of southern Poland. Stretching here is the western fragment of the long chain of the Carpathians with their highest belt, the Tatras, alpine-style mountains.

Further to the east is the region of the Beskidy, with its less severe sculpture. For the most part the mountains are covered with beautiful forests, and the river valleys divide them into smaller mountain groups, Silesian Zywiec, Insular and Low Beskids [Beskid Slaski, Zywiec, Wyspowy and Niski]. Extending furthest to the east are the Bieszczady, with astonishingly variable landscapes, vast panoramas, colorful nooks of mountain valleys and nature in all her richness.

Awaiting the tourist in this part of the country are old settlements with a thousand year history, boasting many priceless relics of architecture and culture. Among them, is one of the most beautiful and most famous cities of Europe: Krakow. It is worth visiting southern Poland if only to get acquainted with this city. However, there are many other attractions in Southeast Poland. For those looking for rest in the summer or lovers of winter sports, there are the renowned and well-organized tourist centers in the Silesian Beskids or Zakopane, in the Tatras. The area is vibrant with activity the year around, though lovers of quiet and virgin nature will find them in the Bieszczady, in the Niepolomicka Forest or in the Low Beskids.

Magnificent relics of architecture and museums do not exist only in Krakow. One can follow the trail of the oldest wooden Orthodox churches and sacred buildings of exceptional charm, visit the most beautiful Polish palaces in Baranow Sandomierski, Krasiczyn, Lancut, Nowy Wisnicz, Pieskowa Skala, Pszczyna. Or, one can visit the industrial towns of Silesia, the adit of a modern mine in Ruda, an old one in Tarnowskie Gory or the salt mine in Wieliczka.

Those who love folklore and the performances of folk bands will find the most colorful examples of this art among the highlanders, especially at various festivals (e.g., in Przemysl, Rzeszow, Zakopane, Zalipie near Tarnow) or at campfires, sledging cavalcades and at picnics organized for tourists.

The possibilities are almost endless in Southeast Poland. The tourist can make excursions through the area's colorful nooks, experience rest and therapeutic stays in famous Beskid health resorts or participate in cultural and folklore events. One can visit the entire south-eastern region of Poland, or go hunting, mushroom-picking or fishing. The adventurous can take an active part in a canoe race or sail with highlanders down the beautiful Dunajec river valley in the Pieniny. More relaxed are boat rides on Rozanow Lake or Solina Lake. One can go horseback riding, travel elegantly in a carriage, or take a few riding lessons in one of the horse stables of the Tarnow region.

KRAKOW--THE TOWN AT THE FOOT OF WAWEL HILL

Krakow is always mentioned among the cities that have had the greatest influence on the development of European culture. This historic town developed on the Vistula at the foot of Wawel hill. The former capital of Poland, center of science, culture and art, cherishing a thousand-year tradition, it is a great treasure--the home of national relics and also plays an important part in the economy of the country.

After the last war, large, new industrial works were constructed here, among them steelworks, around which the huge residential area of Nowa Huta developed. Krakow, Poland's third largest city, is still developing and today has more than 700,000 residents.

It is a large center of education, with young people studying at eleven schools of higher learning. Several theaters are active here, including thee Old Theater [Stary Teatr] and the Slowacki Theater. There are several dozen museums and art galleries, an opera and operetta. Many artistic events are held there, some of international significance, such as the Festival of Short Feature Films and the Biennial of Graphics. The great cultural traditions of Krakow inspire the creative efforts of modern Polish artists, among whom Krzysztof Penderecki and Tadeusz Kantor have gained world renown. Krakow is also a large center of local and foreign tourism. Every year the city is visited by more than 2,000,000 tourists.

The history of the city goes back to the days before the formation of the Polish state, when it was the ducal capital of the Vislane tribe. There are legends that tell of the founder of the town, duke Krak, and his daughter Wanda, and the sinister dragon from the cave of Wawel Hill. Krakow became more important at the beginning of the 11th century, when it became the capital of the entire Polish state and played that role till the beginning of the 17th century.

Despite the destruction caused by Tatar raids in the 13th century (in memory of one of which each June an amusement called Lajkonik is held,) the town continued to develop. The Krakow Academy (now the Jagiellonian University), the second oldest university in Europe, was founded there in 1364. Many architectural relics from that time have been preserved. Krakow experienced its "golden age" during the reign of the Jagiellonian dynasty (1386-1572). As the capital of a powerful state, it became the flourishing center of sciences and the arts, admired by foreigners and extolled by poets. Famous artists left the products of their talent.

When the royal residence was transferred to Warsaw at the end of the 16th century, the importance of Krakow began to decline. Not until the partitions of Poland, when the Polish state disappeared from the map of Europe for more than 120 years, did Krakow once again became a national symbol, the center of Polish culture and art. Famous painters, poets and writers worked there, including Jan Matejko, Stanislaw Wyspianski, Stanislaw Ignacy Witkiewicz, Stanislaw Przybyszewski, Jan Kasprowicz, Juliusz and Wojciech Kossak. Krakow became the main center of Polish modernism (Young Poland,) whose greatest representatives were Wyspianski and Przybyszewski. There, as well as in Warsaw, national liberation movements began.

It was in the Krakow Market Place [Rynek] that Tadeusz Kosciuszko, Poland`s national hero, took his famous oath in 1794, which initiated the uprising against the invaders, and in 1846 Krakow once again took up arms. The defeat of this rebellion led to a loss of the remnants of autonomy of the so-called Krakow Republic.

After Poland regained her independence in 1918, the Jagiellonian Library, National Museum, and Mining and Metallurgy Academy were built in Krakow.

During World War II, the German authorities of the so-called "General Government" resided in Krakow. The residents of the city shared the fate of other Poles. Many perished. Professors and scientific workers of the Jagiellonian University were deceitfully summoned to a meeting, only to be sent to a concentration camp. Relics and monuments of national culture were destroyed and plundered. However, the walls escaped serious destruction during the tragic war years thanks to a military maneuver that prevented the blowing up of the city. In 1978, the architecturally historical section of Krakow was placed by UNESCO on the list of the 12 most precious world monuments.

The renovation of Old Town [Stare Miasto] has been in progress for many years, restoring the former splendor of the ancient relics (there are more than 3,500 of them) and make them even more beautiful. It is difficult to describe the unique charm and harmony of edifies created for centuries, hiding within their walls the most precious works of art. Surrounded by precious relics is the vast Market Place, whose central part is occupied by Cloth Hall [Sukiennice], a covered market.

Colorful crowds come and go throughout the entire day around Cloth Hall. The famous Krakow flower vendors spread out at the base of the Adam Mickiewicz monument, and here, every year in December, the famous competition of Krakow Christ-child`s cribs is held. Some of them resemble the Gothic St. Mary`s Church, built in the 14th century.

Inside the church, which is actually a basilica, is the famous altar carved by Wit Stwosz. In the main scene, depicting the dosing Virgin Mary, the figures are of natural size and rendered with unbelievable realism. On 18 bas-reliefs the artist has also presented scenes from the Bible. Every hour, a bugle-call from the Middle Ages resounds from the tower of this church.

Each burgher house at the Market Place has its own rich history. There is, of course, the famous "Wierzynek" restaurant, where, according to tradition, gathered Charles IV, kings and dukes attending a congress in Krakow. The entire Old Town complex is bewitchingly rich in architectural styles. Here at every step and in every corner something new appears, and everything here has its own historical climate. The fragment of town walls with St. Florian`s gate and several towers, including the Barbakan, is a remnant of medieval fortifications, one of the few still extant in Europe.

The cultural richness of Krakow is highlighted by the collections of 28 museums, among which the National Museum has famous collections of painting (such as works of Leonardo da Vinci and Rembrandt,) sculptures, goldsmith works and documents. The Jagiellonian Museum in the Gothic Collegium Maius has collections that document the history of the university and mementos of its most famous alumnus, Nicholas Copernicus [Mikolaj Kopernik]. The interiors of palaces, churches, old burgher houses of Krakow are astonishing in the richness of their architectural details, polychromy, stained-glass windows, painting, sculptures and furnishings.

Wawel Hill with the royal palace and the cathedral comprises a complex of buildings that have the greatest importance for the history and culture of the Polish nation. The church contains the graves of Polish Kings, the works of famous artists such as Wit Stwosz and Santi Gucci, and in its vaults are graves of such famous Polish leaders as Prince Jozef Poniatowski and Marshal Jozef Pilsudski, as well as the poets Adam Mickiewicz and Juliusz Slowacki.

Among the eighteen chapels of the cathedral, King Sigismund`s Chapel is remarkable for its beauty and is regarded as one of the outstanding Renaissance works in central Europe (the work of the Florentine artist Bartolommeo Berrecci.) Five bells hang in the belfry of the cathedral, among which the largest is "Sigismund" (diameter 2.5 m., height 1.95 m.), cast in 1520. The Royal Palace at Wawel was built in the 14th century and rebuilt at the beginning of the 16th Renaissance style. Today it contains National Art Collections (rich collections of tapestries, period furniture, Polish and European paintings, military accessories and the royal insignia.) Oriental art is presented in the permanent exhibition "The East Wawel Collections," among which is a rich collection of Turkish tents and military accessories.

There are also other priceless relics in Krakow. An interesting complex is the oldest part of the Kazimierz district, where beside the town hall, churches of St. Catherine and Corpus Christi, are also relics of Jewish culture. In the Old Synagogue (originally Gothic, rebuilt in the 16th century) is the Judaic Museum, containing relics, religious objects, works of art and handicrafts, books and manuscripts. Nearby is the Remuth cemetery, established in the 16th century.

WIELICZKA OR MAGNUM SAL

This town of Wieliczka is not far from Krakow (13 km.) The greatest tourist attraction here is the antique salt mine, placed in 1978 by UNESCO, in addition to Krakow, on the list of the twelve most priceless world monuments. It is among the oldest and largest complexes of this type, with a total of about 20 million tons of salt having been mined here in the course of 700 years. The length of the headings and excavations on nine mining levels amounts to more than 300 km.

The oldest part of the mine is open to visitors. The 4.5 kilometer-long route leads through galleries and chambers on three mining levels. Here one can see 17th and 19th century chapels and the natural, world-unique Crystal Caves. The underground part also contains the Museum of Krakow Salt-Works, an exhibition presenting the history of Polish mining. On display are original mining tools and implements placed to give the impression that the miners have just finished their work.

The underground sanatorium "Kinga" has been open in the mine since 1964. For therapeutic purposes (treatment of asthma,) it makes use of a specific microclimate. It is located 200 meters below sea level.

TRIPS FROM KRAKOW

In the vicinity of Krakow there are also several other interesting places.

Niepolomice

The town of Niepolomice (20 km. from Krakow) is located at the edge of Niepolomice Forest, which was the place of residence of the royal court during great hunts. Preserved here are the royal palace with a courtyard modelled on the one at Wawel, as well as a Gothic church from the 14th century.

Dobczyce

At a distance 28 km. from Krakow is Dobczyce, a town on the Raba river, with the colorfully situated ruins of a 14th century castle. In the preserved tower is a regional museum with archaeological, historical and ethnographic collections. Nearby is a Skansen (outdoor) museum of folk architecture is being constructed.

Myslenice

Also on the Raba, about 30 km. from Krakow, is the popular recreation center of Myslenice, with recreation and sports areas around a lagoon. Worth seeing are a 15th century church, several antique buildings (among others, the Greek House), and a former merchants' inn that now houses a regional museum with historical and ethnographic collections. Also of interest is the Flour-Milling Museum.

Kalwaria Zebrzydowska

The small town of Kalwaria Zebrzydowska (about 36 km. from Krakow) has been a religious center and pilgrimage site since the 17th century. A Bernardine monastery complex in the mannerist style was built here in 1603-1609. Spreading out on the colorful hill slopes are more than 40 small churches and chapels, which make up the Way of the Cross. Twice a year, before Easter and in July, colorful religious festivities are held here.

Kalwaria Zebrzydowska is also a well-known furniture-making center.

Wadowice

Located 50 km. from Krakow, Wadowice is in the valley of the Skawa river at the foot of the Little Beskids. John Paul II, the first Polish Pope, was born and spent his youth here. In the market place there is an antique church, whose oldest part dates back to the 15th century. Nearby is the Pope's home (now a museum devoted to his life and works) and the secondary school that he attended.

Oswiecim

About 70 km. from Krakow, Oswiecim is a center of the chemical and machine industry. Since World War II, the name of the town has become a symbol all over the world of the martyrdom of the victims of Nazism. The largest concentration camp, Oswiecim-Brzezinka [Auschwitz-Birkenau] was built here in 1940. At that site more than 4,000,000 prisons of 28 nationalities lost their lives, among them Polish social and political activists, Soviet prisoners and Jews, who were brought here from all over Europe.

At the beginning of 1944, in order to cover up the traces of their crimes, the Germans blew up the crematoria and part of the camp buildings. The camp area has been designated as a Monument to the Martyrdom of the Polish and Other Nations.

Since 1947 there is a National Museum of Martyrology here. An impressive Monument to the Victims of Oswiecim has been built on the grounds of the camp in Brzezinka [Birkenau].